Cara Skim Cepat Kaya - Waran BSKL

"Waran dan pelaburan jangka masa panjang - kedua-duanya rapat bagai siang dan malam, timur dan barat?" Orang ramai selalu mengaitkan pelabur waran dengan spekulator, pedagang dan pengarbitraj. Terutama sekali dalam pasaran tempatan, waran seperti direka khas untuk pelabur runcit kerana kemeruapannya dan kerana harga setiap waran hanya beberapa sen.

Bagaimanapun, mari kita lihat asas waran untuk mereka yang kurang mengetahui. Buku teks menjelaskan waran sebagai alat yang memberi hak kepada pemegang saham untuk membeli saham dalam syarikat sandaran pada harga dan jangka masa tertentu. Waran membolehkan anda berdagang secara agresif pada harga masa hadapan. Jika anda percaya harga saham akan naik, anda akan mendapat pulangan lebih tinggi daripada pelaburan dalam waran daripada saham sandaran. Begitu juga kalau anda silap dan sebaliknya harga saham jatuh, maka kerugian yang anda tanggung juga lebih besar. Hubung kait ini ataupun pengkalian di mana harga waran naik relatif kepada harga sandaran saham dikenali gearing.

Contohnya, jika anda membeli waran syarikat A pada kos 10 sen pada masa harga sahamnya RM1, gearing ialah 10x (dikira seperti berikut : RM1/RM0.10). Ini bermakna, secara teori, jika harga saham itu naik 10 peratus (10 sen), harga waran sepatutnya naik 100 peratus (10 sen kenaikan ke atas kos 10 sen).

Sekarang, saya akan jelaskan sesuatu yang menarik. Pertama, apa kata anda jika saya memberitahu ada syarikat yang boleh anda labur, yang mana harga saham mereka boleh meningkat lima kali ganda atau lebih dalam beberapa tahun? Kedua, bagaimana pula jika anda mempunyai kuasa untuk meningkatkan pencapaian beberapa kali lagi? Anda boleh mencapai yang pertama dengan membeli saham kitar pada masa harga rendah (contohnya - harga saham MPI meningkat 11 kali ganda antara Ogos 1998 dan Februari 2000) dan mencapai yang kedua dengan menggunakan waran untuk "gearing".

Gabungkan kedua-duanya dan anda akan memiliki satu strategi yang kukuh! Hanya satu teori? Fikir sekali lagi. Waran Hong Leong Industries, syarikat induk MPI, meningkat sebanyak 46 kali ganda antara suku tahun ketiga 1998 dan suku tahun pertama 2000. Pada masa yang sama, waran AIC naik sebanyak 35 kali, waran Gamuda -WI 38 kali dan waran CAH-W 24 kali. Saya sedar contoh yang digunakan berlaku pada masa krisis ekonomi Asia 1997/98.

Ini menyebabkan asas menjadi amat rendah dan kenaikan harga kelihatan lebih dahsyat apabila pasaran mula pulih. Namun, ini tidak menyimpang daripada apa yang ingin saya sampaikan - iaitu kemungkinan pulangan yang amat tinggi daripada penggunaan waran dengan bijak. Bagaimana caranya? Sebagai permulaan, anda perlu melabur di dalam sesebuah perniagaan yang kitarannya hampir dengan jurang - ini satu prinsip baik untuk pelaburan jangka panjang, walaupun anda tidak menggunakan waran.

Contoh perniagaan berkitaran tinggi ialah teknologi, perbankan, pembinaan dan perumahan. Selepas itu, waran itu mestilah mempunyai gearing" tinggi untuk memperolehi kelebihan. Mungkin, inilah saja yang mesti anda fikirkan jika anda mahukan pulangan tinggi. Tapi ia belum berakhir di sini. Anda juga perlukan langkah keselamatan untuk memastikan anda tidak membuang duit begitu saja.

Pertama, anda mesti melabur dalam waran syarikat yang kukuh. Lupakan syarikat spekulasi. Kedua, waran mesti mempunyai masa yang panjang untuk matang, supaya ia boleh bertembung dengan kenaikan harga apabila kitaran perniagaan bergerak ke fasa menaik. Bergantung kepada jenis perniagaan, saya nasihatkan hayat waran tidak harus kurang daripada tiga tahun. Ketiga, harga laksana mestilah tidak terlampau tinggi daripada harga saham semasa. Keempat, anda mesti pastikan perniagaan itu hanya berada dalam jurang kitarnya dan bukan mengalami kejatuhan struktur. Strategi ini tidak akan berjaya jika anda melabur dalam waran sebuah syarikat yang terbabit dalam penggalian timah contohnya. Akhirnya, anda mesti selesa dengan kemajuan syarikat itu, contohnya - syarikat itu tidak akan dijual, atau berhenti beroperasi sebelum keadaan sempat pulih.

Sebelum saya akhiri, saya mesti menjelaskan beberapa perkara. Waran ialah satu alat berisiko tinggi bukan saja kerana ketidaktentuannya tetapi juga kemungkinan besar anda hilang semua pelaburan. Anda tidak sepatutnya memikirkan kemungkinan melabur semua simpanan anda ke dalam waran hanya kerana inginkan pulangan sebanyak 10 kali atau lebih. Saya hanya menggalakkan strategi ini untuk sebahagian kecil portfolio anda atau melabur sejumlah wang yang kecil, yang tidak akan memberikan kesan jika anda rugi.

(Yeoh Keat Seng ialah Ketua Eksekutif Commerce Trust Bhd. E-mel keatseng@commercetrust.com.my)

Dapatkan DUIT dari Ziddu

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Bagi Anda yang ingin mengupload file-file seperti file dokumen, file word, e-book, mp3, pdf, gambar atau file apapun ke internet saya merekomendasikan Anda menggunakan fasilitas dari Ziddu.
Anda bebas menyimpan file-file yang ingin Anda sebarkan di internet tanpa dibatasi kuota. Setelah Anda meng upload file di Ziddu akan diberikan link download dimana Anda dapat menyebarkan link download file Anda tersebut. Anda dapat meng-copy link download tersebut yang kemudian dapat anda paste di blog anda, di Friendster atau Facebook anda.




Paijo sedang sibuk : “Kenapa harus Ziddu ?, bukannya ada banyak file hosting yang lebih baik di internet sana ?.”
Topan : “Selain 100 % gratis, dan Unlimited disk space (bisa upload file sebanyak mungkin), Kelebihan dari Ziddu adalah kamu akan DIBAYAR ketika file yang kamu simpan di Ziddu ada yang mendowloadnya. Begitu Jo !!.
Paijo sedang sibuk : “Jangan sok tahu lo kamu pan !.”
Topan : “Biarin daripada kamu sok sibuk.”

Berikut perinciannya:
Anda akan DIBAYAR $0.001 jika ada yang 1 kali men downloadnya. Jika di akumulasikan akan seperti ini..

10000 Unique Downloads: $10 USD
50000 Unique Downloads: $50 USD
100000 Unique Downloads: $100 USD
500000 Unique Downloads: $500 USD
1000000 Unique Downloads: $1000 USD

Bonus juga akan diberikan jika Anda merekomendasikan orang lain untuk menggunakan Ziddu sebesar $0.10 Dolar. Nantinya Anda akan diberikan link refferal oleh Ziddu. Nanti akan saya beritahu caranya.

Ziddu akan mengirimkan pendapatan Anda setelah mencapai 10 dolar. Awal bulan April 2009 yang lalu saya menerima pembayaran pertama saya dari Ziddu. Begitu senangnya perasaan saya pada waktu itu.

Anda berminat?
Silakan daftar gratis Ziddu disini. (REF)

1. Setelah masuk, Isikan nama, email, password serta verifikasi kode kemudian klik “submit”.

2. Kemudian anda akan di giring ke halaman baru, di sana anda di minta untuk upload file pertama anda. pilihlah file yang anda pilih kemudian upload.

3. Jika anda tidak langsung masuk ke halaman upload, maka anda bisa mencoba untuk login dengan email dan password yang telah anda buat tadi. kemudian setelah login cobalah untuk upload file pertama anda.

4. Setelah selesai upload maka akan ada link file yang tadi anda upload, nah di sana ada URL yang bisa anda sebarkan di blog, forum, friendster maupun facebook agar orang lain download file tersebut. Oleh karena itu upload saja hal-hal yang bagus dan berguna seperti software, gambar e-book atau MP3. (Mungkin MP3 akan banyak yang akan men-download.)

Setelah itu ada banyak menu yang bisa anda lihat di sana seperti penghasilan anda, file anda, semuanya ada di pilihan toolbar.

Cara mendapatkan link refferal :
Setelah anda login, cobalah untuk melihat di bawah dan klik pada tulisan “refferal banner”, kemudian di sana anda akan mendapatkan link refferal Anda. Sebarkan saja link tersebut di forum, blog, friendster maupun facebook selain itu anda juga bisa mendapatkan kode banner yang bisa anda pasang di mana saja.

Pembayaran Anda akan di transfer melalaui Paypal.
Jika anda belum mempunyai account Paypal dan ingin mengetahui bagaimana cara membuat account Paypal klik Apa itu Paypal dan cara membuat Paypal.

OK.
Semoga bermanfaat.

Dapat Duit Dengan Freakshare

Melihat perkembangan bisnis online di internet semakin lama semakin pesat.pertanda bahwa bisnis online mempunyai prospek baik kedepannya.malam ini saya mencoba sharing mengenai bisnis online di file hosting.dalam hal ini saya membahas file hosting di freakshare.net.sudah pada tahu kan tentang freakshare.net?.memang di internet banyak sekali situs penyedia file hosting seperti halnya ziddu,mediafire,megaupload,2shared,4shared,dll.namun untuk mendapatkan penghasilan di file hosting,saya rekomendasikan di freakshare.net.ada apa ya?,kenapa ngga ziddu aja?kan udah terbukti membayar dollar.menyikapi pertanyaan tersebut,ziddu sekarang sudah mulai menurun pelayannya.saya sering mengalami error saat download di ziddu dan banyak pop-up bermunculan [maaf ya gan file download-an ane sementara ini masih di ziddu ].
Yap,untuk kedepannya ane usahain pindahin semua ke file hosting yang lebih baik [kalau sempet ].tentunya di freakshare.net.freakshare merupakan alternative lain mendapatkan keuntungan dari setiap file yang didownload dan mengikuti program affiliasinya.tergantung agan maunya yang mana?dua-duanya juga malah lebih bagus.komisi yang kita peroleh dari freakshare bukanlah mata uang $dollar,melainkan €Euro.wow,,malah lebih mantabb lagi gan.detailnya

Earn up to 40 € for 1000 Downloads.
For every advertised Premium Account you earn 1 €
We pay you 10% from the money earned from affiliates who you referred to our Service [1 € = $ 1,22]
min upload 5MB/file,PayOut min 20€Euro [Paypal]

Nah gimana gan,seru kan.daftarnya gratiss,,tiss,,tiss dan tidak membatasi dari negara mana saja boleh kok.Sedikit Tips dari ane: gimana caranya dapetin €€ dengan mudah dan cepat?.pertama,posting keforum-forum besar gan.seperti kaskus danlebih cepetnya lagi gabung di forum luar yang jumlah membernya paling banyak.biasanya di forum negara indya [belasan juta member],china[puluhan juta member,hanya saja bahasanya ngga ngerti kanji semua].dan untuk file yang paling laku didownload adalah file video Por*n* gan :-p .intinya,sebarkan link download freakshare kamu sebanyak-banyaknya dan sertakan file gambar yang menarik pada saat posting,gunanya untuk memancing downloader.biar cepet laku file kita gan .ya sudahlah ngga usah lama-lama lagi deh gan,mending langsung join dan upload filenya+mari berburu Euro bersama-sama.tenang aja gan,gratis sepanjang masa.

A simpler way to save: the 60% solution

Taken from : MSN Money
A simpler way to save: the 60% solution
Twenty years of complicated budget calculations have led me to this one simple conclusion: By limiting all essential spending to 60% of total income, savings will soar.
By Richard Jenkins
The basics
How many of you have tried budgeting and think it's a waste of time? Come on, let's see those hands.

OK, that's just about everybody.

I've kept a budget of one kind or another, first on paper and then with the help of various software programs, for about 20 years -- despite a strong suspicion that I was wasting my time. The illusion of control, I argued to myself, was better than none at all.

My approach to budgeting was to carefully track my spending during the month and to adjust my budget targets up and down in each category, so that my total expenses never exceeded my income.

Laborious? You bet.

Useful? Sometimes.

Anal-compulsive? Probably.

After two decades of this, though, I started to wonder if there isn't an easier, more effective way to budget. I realized that the hardest part about keeping a budget is getting useful information from it. There's too much detail and not enough bottom line. My answer is "the 60% solution," a faster and easier way to structure your budget without having to account for every penny.

What you're trying to do with a budget is to prevent overspending, which ultimately leads to piling up debt. Contrary to the way most people budget, however, it rarely matters what you're overspending on -- dining out, entertainment, clothes. Who cares? It's still debt, right?

Looking at my own spending history, I realized that it wasn't the little luxuries here and there that got me in trouble. It was the large, irregular expenses, like vacations, major repairs and the holidays that did all the damage. To avoid overspending, I had to do a better job of planning for those.

And then there were the really big expenses: buying a car, putting a down payment on a new home or putting a new roof on an old home -- all of which can run into the tens of thousands of dollars. They also can often be postponed, sometimes for years, which theoretically should give me a chance to save for them.

Understand your committed expenses
As I looked back over the past 20 years of budgeting, I saw that there were a few years when my wife and I believed we were fairly on top of things, even with a much lower income than we have today. How did we manage?

The key was a drop in our fixed monthly expenses. It was a period when declining interest rates had lowered our adjustable-rate mortgage payment to about 15% of our household income. That left us with some extra money each month to set aside in a savings account for those irregular expenses.

We later moved to a bigger house with a much bigger mortgage payment, higher maintenance costs and utility bills, and obscene property taxes. The monthly mortgage payment was only 20% of our gross income, far lower than the 33% that most lenders will allow, but, suddenly, we were struggling again.

Even after refinancing our mortgage at a lower rate, we were still often running out of cash before the end of the month. I realized that other fixed expenses had crept upward over the years. As my children, Natalie, now 17, and Jackson, 14, have gotten older, they need things like music lessons and sports equipment that can add several hundred dollars a month to our basic expenses. They're also outgrowing clothes faster than we can buy them.

The slow but steady growth in our monthly spending commitments was putting a squeeze on our budget. I call these "committed" expenses rather than "fixed" or "non-discretionary" expenses, because things like music lessons are neither fixed in amount nor absolute necessities, but rather are commitments my wife and I have made to provide for our children.

The 60% solution emerges
After analyzing our spending patterns over the past couple of years using our Microsoft Money data file, I determined that we needed to keep our committed expenses at or below 60% of our gross income to come out ahead at the end of the month.

Committed expenses:

Basic food and clothing needs.

Essential household expenses.

Insurance premiums.

Charitable contributions.

All of our bills -- even such non-essentials as our satellite TV service.

ALL of our taxes.

I'm not saying that 60% is a magic number. It's a workable goal for my family, and it's a nice round number. But your number might well be a bit higher or lower. At any rate, it's a good place to start.

Then I divided up the remaining 40% into four chunks of 10% each, listed here in order of priority:

Retirement savings: consisting entirely of my 401(k) contribution, which is subtracted automatically from my paycheck.

Long-term savings: also automatically deducted from my pay to buy Microsoft stock at a discount as part of an unusual stock-purchase program. The relative lack of liquidity (i.e. the difficulty of turning these shares into cash) makes it harder to spend this money without some planning and a series of deliberate steps. In a real emergency, though, I could sell and have the cash wired into my bank account within three days, so this is also our emergency fund.

Short-term savings for irregular expenses: which are direct-deposited from my paycheck into a credit union savings account. Money in this account can be easily transferred into our checking account, as needed, via the Web. Over the course of a year, I expect to use all of this money to pay for vacations, repairs, new appliances, holiday gifts and other irregular but more or less predictable expenses.

Fun money: which we can spend on anything we like during the month, so long as the total doesn't exceed 10% of my income.

You may have noticed that only 70% of my paycheck is used for everyday expenses. Since we never see the other 30%, my wife and I generally don't miss it.

We don't really need to track our expenses, because our checking account balance is generally equal to the amount of money we can spend. That's the way a lot of people do it, but they don't first make provision for savings.

The key is keeping a lid on those committed expenses. You can categorize them if you want, but it isn't really necessary. In fact, you could make a budget with just three categories: committed expenses, fun money and irregular expenses, and that's just what I've done with the budget in Money 2005 (see chart below). (I can't really give up my anal-compulsive ways completely, so I've also created a set of subcategories to track the committed expenses, partly because that also allows me to export parts of my spending data to a tax program at the end of the year.)

Now, at this point you may be saying, "Well, la-dee-dah for you, but there's no way I can get my committed expenses down to 60% of my income."

How to get your spending down
For a lot of people, part of the difficulty in reducing committed expenses comes from the need to make big monthly credit card payments. If you're carrying a substantial amount of non-mortgage debt, I'd suggest using the 20% that would otherwise go to retirement and long-term saving to aggressively pay down your debt -- but only after you cut up those cards.

Every dollar in interest that you don't pay is just like getting a guaranteed, risk- and tax-free return on your money equal to the interest rate on the debt. When your debts are paid off -- and it won't take long using 20% of your gross income -- immediately redirect that money into savings.

Now, let's take the really hard case: Even excluding debt payments, reducing your committed expenses to 60% still seems like an impossible goal. If that describes your situation, the odds are good that you're facing one of the following problems:

You have a more expensive home than you can afford.

You've committed to car or boat payments that are larger than you can afford.

Your children are in a private school that you can't really afford.

There's just a big, ugly gap between your income and your lifestyle.

If it's one of the first three, you can undo the damage by slowly unwinding the commitments you've made and choosing something less appealing but ultimately more appropriate.

If the problem is having champagne tastes on a beer budget, you'll need to take a long, hard look at where the money is going and why. Consider if perhaps you're using money and things to fill a void in your life. Often, the steps needed to fill that void have little to do with money.

The real secret to building a budget that really works isn't tracking what you spend, any more than counting calories is the secret to losing weight. The key is creating a sustainable structure for your finances, one that balances spending and income and that leaves enough room to handle the unexpected.

A simpler way to save: the 60% solution

Taken from : MSN Money
A simpler way to save: the 60% solution
Twenty years of complicated budget calculations have led me to this one simple conclusion: By limiting all essential spending to 60% of total income, savings will soar.
By Richard Jenkins
The basics
How many of you have tried budgeting and think it's a waste of time? Come on, let's see those hands.

OK, that's just about everybody.

I've kept a budget of one kind or another, first on paper and then with the help of various software programs, for about 20 years -- despite a strong suspicion that I was wasting my time. The illusion of control, I argued to myself, was better than none at all.

My approach to budgeting was to carefully track my spending during the month and to adjust my budget targets up and down in each category, so that my total expenses never exceeded my income.

Laborious? You bet.

Useful? Sometimes.

Anal-compulsive? Probably.

After two decades of this, though, I started to wonder if there isn't an easier, more effective way to budget. I realized that the hardest part about keeping a budget is getting useful information from it. There's too much detail and not enough bottom line. My answer is "the 60% solution," a faster and easier way to structure your budget without having to account for every penny.

What you're trying to do with a budget is to prevent overspending, which ultimately leads to piling up debt. Contrary to the way most people budget, however, it rarely matters what you're overspending on -- dining out, entertainment, clothes. Who cares? It's still debt, right?

Looking at my own spending history, I realized that it wasn't the little luxuries here and there that got me in trouble. It was the large, irregular expenses, like vacations, major repairs and the holidays that did all the damage. To avoid overspending, I had to do a better job of planning for those.

And then there were the really big expenses: buying a car, putting a down payment on a new home or putting a new roof on an old home -- all of which can run into the tens of thousands of dollars. They also can often be postponed, sometimes for years, which theoretically should give me a chance to save for them.

Understand your committed expenses
As I looked back over the past 20 years of budgeting, I saw that there were a few years when my wife and I believed we were fairly on top of things, even with a much lower income than we have today. How did we manage?

The key was a drop in our fixed monthly expenses. It was a period when declining interest rates had lowered our adjustable-rate mortgage payment to about 15% of our household income. That left us with some extra money each month to set aside in a savings account for those irregular expenses.

We later moved to a bigger house with a much bigger mortgage payment, higher maintenance costs and utility bills, and obscene property taxes. The monthly mortgage payment was only 20% of our gross income, far lower than the 33% that most lenders will allow, but, suddenly, we were struggling again.

Even after refinancing our mortgage at a lower rate, we were still often running out of cash before the end of the month. I realized that other fixed expenses had crept upward over the years. As my children, Natalie, now 17, and Jackson, 14, have gotten older, they need things like music lessons and sports equipment that can add several hundred dollars a month to our basic expenses. They're also outgrowing clothes faster than we can buy them.

The slow but steady growth in our monthly spending commitments was putting a squeeze on our budget. I call these "committed" expenses rather than "fixed" or "non-discretionary" expenses, because things like music lessons are neither fixed in amount nor absolute necessities, but rather are commitments my wife and I have made to provide for our children.

The 60% solution emerges
After analyzing our spending patterns over the past couple of years using our Microsoft Money data file, I determined that we needed to keep our committed expenses at or below 60% of our gross income to come out ahead at the end of the month.

Committed expenses:

Basic food and clothing needs.

Essential household expenses.

Insurance premiums.

Charitable contributions.

All of our bills -- even such non-essentials as our satellite TV service.

ALL of our taxes.

I'm not saying that 60% is a magic number. It's a workable goal for my family, and it's a nice round number. But your number might well be a bit higher or lower. At any rate, it's a good place to start.

Then I divided up the remaining 40% into four chunks of 10% each, listed here in order of priority:

Retirement savings: consisting entirely of my 401(k) contribution, which is subtracted automatically from my paycheck.

Long-term savings: also automatically deducted from my pay to buy Microsoft stock at a discount as part of an unusual stock-purchase program. The relative lack of liquidity (i.e. the difficulty of turning these shares into cash) makes it harder to spend this money without some planning and a series of deliberate steps. In a real emergency, though, I could sell and have the cash wired into my bank account within three days, so this is also our emergency fund.

Short-term savings for irregular expenses: which are direct-deposited from my paycheck into a credit union savings account. Money in this account can be easily transferred into our checking account, as needed, via the Web. Over the course of a year, I expect to use all of this money to pay for vacations, repairs, new appliances, holiday gifts and other irregular but more or less predictable expenses.

Fun money: which we can spend on anything we like during the month, so long as the total doesn't exceed 10% of my income.

You may have noticed that only 70% of my paycheck is used for everyday expenses. Since we never see the other 30%, my wife and I generally don't miss it.

We don't really need to track our expenses, because our checking account balance is generally equal to the amount of money we can spend. That's the way a lot of people do it, but they don't first make provision for savings.

The key is keeping a lid on those committed expenses. You can categorize them if you want, but it isn't really necessary. In fact, you could make a budget with just three categories: committed expenses, fun money and irregular expenses, and that's just what I've done with the budget in Money 2005 (see chart below). (I can't really give up my anal-compulsive ways completely, so I've also created a set of subcategories to track the committed expenses, partly because that also allows me to export parts of my spending data to a tax program at the end of the year.)

Now, at this point you may be saying, "Well, la-dee-dah for you, but there's no way I can get my committed expenses down to 60% of my income."

How to get your spending down
For a lot of people, part of the difficulty in reducing committed expenses comes from the need to make big monthly credit card payments. If you're carrying a substantial amount of non-mortgage debt, I'd suggest using the 20% that would otherwise go to retirement and long-term saving to aggressively pay down your debt -- but only after you cut up those cards.

Every dollar in interest that you don't pay is just like getting a guaranteed, risk- and tax-free return on your money equal to the interest rate on the debt. When your debts are paid off -- and it won't take long using 20% of your gross income -- immediately redirect that money into savings.

Now, let's take the really hard case: Even excluding debt payments, reducing your committed expenses to 60% still seems like an impossible goal. If that describes your situation, the odds are good that you're facing one of the following problems:

You have a more expensive home than you can afford.

You've committed to car or boat payments that are larger than you can afford.

Your children are in a private school that you can't really afford.

There's just a big, ugly gap between your income and your lifestyle.

If it's one of the first three, you can undo the damage by slowly unwinding the commitments you've made and choosing something less appealing but ultimately more appropriate.

If the problem is having champagne tastes on a beer budget, you'll need to take a long, hard look at where the money is going and why. Consider if perhaps you're using money and things to fill a void in your life. Often, the steps needed to fill that void have little to do with money.

The real secret to building a budget that really works isn't tracking what you spend, any more than counting calories is the secret to losing weight. The key is creating a sustainable structure for your finances, one that balances spending and income and that leaves enough room to handle the unexpected.